名片效果图怎么做可以先印一张看效果吗

用Photoshop做一个可以直接打印的公司名片
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用Photoshop做一个可以直接打印的公司名片
Making a Print-Ready Business Card Using Only Photoshop
用PHOTOSHOP做一个可以直接打印的公司名片引用:教程出自:
教程翻译:思缘论坛 凯文多拉
转载请注明出处最终效果
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辛苦卡姐了!很棒的教程!
辛苦卡姐了!很棒的教程!
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Ok, so the very first thing we need to do is create a New Document. Depending on where you are planning on getting your cards printed, you may need different dimensions. The printer I use here in Sydney has a default card size of 90mm x 55mm.
When sending things off to printers however, you need to add a sort of border around the image called a Bleed. A bleed is basically the space on the edges of your design where the image keeps going past where the printer is going to cut the paper. That way if the cut lands a mm to either side you don’t wind up with blank paper at the edges. How much space you leave for bleed also depends on your printer. Generally speaking 3mm – 5mm is a good amount of bleed.
Because of a quirk of Photoshop (which you’ll see later) we’re going to use a value of 3mm. So when creating the image, instead of making it 90mm high we are making it 90mm + 3mm bleed on the left + 3mm bleed on the right = 96mm. Similarly with the width, we’re making it 55+3+3 = 61mm.
Note also that because we are making something for print you should set the Resolution to 300dpi and Color Mode should be set to CMYK. We’ll talk more about the color mode later, but with the resolution you should note that 300dpi basically means there is more image information available so you get a sharp print out.
If you ever have to make a huge poster, you can sometimes get away with as little as 120dpi, but it really depends how far away the person will be looking at your work from. If you are printing 120dpi, the quality up close will be pretty bad. If it’s a giant poster (think meters rather than centimeters), then you can get away with it. Anyhow because this is a business card, we should make it 300dpi so it’s a nice, high-quality print.
这里只是概括解释一下第一步的含义:
新建一个61mm×96mm大小的画布,因为我准备做一个大小为55mm×90mm的名片,考虑到打印位置可能出现的偏移和以后需要的裁剪,所以四边各加3mm的宽度,所以新建画布的大小为55+3+3 = 61mm ; 90+3+3=96mm
其他参数详见下图:
Once the document is created, the first thing we need to add are some guides to show us where the edges of the business card are and where the bleed starts. So first of all press Ctrl-R to switch on your rulers. Now to add the guides, you can either click on the ruler and drag guides out on to the document, or for a more precise method, go to View & New Guide and then give it a Horizontal position of 3mm. Repeat again with a Vertical position of 3mm. Then repeat twice more with Vertical / 58mm and Horizontal / 93mm.
现在我们要留出裁剪位置,先按CTRL+R键显示出标尺,然后设置参考线,你可以利用标尺来设置参考线,或者更加精确的方法,视图-新建参考线,在水平方向设置3mm;重复一次,在垂直方向也同样设置3mm;再次重复2次,分别在水平93mm和垂直58mm的位置设置参考线。
You should now have a blank canvas similar to the one below with four guides, each 3mm away from the edge.
你现在有一个空白画布类似下图四边均有3mm的距离。
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Now because I made this card for the FreelanceSwitch Card Competition I had to use an element from Arsenal’s freebie pack of vectors and textures. I chose this nice texture of concrete because it looks nice and urban! You can download the texture yourself by visiting Arsenal’s site and clicking on the Free section.
我的质感素材都是在这个网站下载的,你可以自行前往:
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So after pasting the texture in, I hit Ctrl-T to transform it to roughly the right size. Now while I want the texture to be dirty and grungy, right now it’s a bit TOO dirty and noisy. So first of all we’ll get rid of the two gigantic lines running along from left to right. We can do this with the Clone Stamp (S) Tool. I discussed this tool the other day in the magazine tutorial, but just to refresh, you press Alt to select the area you want to clone (in this case I just used the area directly above) and then brush the area you want to clone over.
Using a soft brush on a texture like this concrete means it’s quite hard to detect if you’re not directly looking for evidence of cloning.
把素材粘贴进画布后,CTRL+T工具进行大小和位置的变换。现在的素材看着有些赃和杂点过多,根据左右参考线的位置,这样我们用盖印图章工具,对我们需要的部位进行复制。
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At this point I decided that I wanted to darken the texture, so I added a layer above filled with the color #797c82 and set it to Multiply. However, the look was a bit strange and has a sort of bluish cast (see below) whereas I want it darker and greyer. This is to do with the color mode we’re in – CMYK. So time to talk a little bit about color modes… (at least as I understand them)
So you can do this by going to Image & Mode & RGB Color. It will ask you if you want to flatten the image–say no! You should see an immediate shift in the coloring of the darkening effect.
新建图层,填充颜色#797c82 ,图层模式——正片叠底;然后图形-模式-RGB颜色(开始新建图层为CMYK)
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So here we are in RGB mode. Next we want to draw some diagonal blocks. So grab the Polygonal Lasso Tool (L) and then create a new layer.
Now you want to draw the shape shown below. To do this nicely, you should hold down Shift so that it forces the angles to be multiples of 45′ and give you a nice even shape.
现在我们在RGB模式下,下面我们来画一些方块,新建一层图层,用多边形工具画出下图所示的形状。要画的比较好看,你需要按住SHIFT键,这样它的角度就会控制在45°让你的形状更漂亮。
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Once you have the shape, fill it with Color: #c4b10f, which is an ugly yellow color, and then set the blending mode to Color Dodge. Now you should have a bright yellow that looks like the one below. Note that if you switch back to CMYK, you will see how this effect doesn’t work at all and why we had to switch to RGB earlier.
Anyhow duplicate this layer a few times until you have six yellow bars and just roughly space them out so that one is right on the left and another right on the right with the rest clumped in between (we’ll space them accurately in the next step).
把勾好的形状载入选区,填充颜色 #c4b10f,图层模式——颜色减淡。
然后复制6层,大概进行排列,左右边上的1个会有部分在画布外面。
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Now rather than trying to space by eye or by pressing the arrow key the same number of times (which I’m embarrassed to say I often do), we will use the align tools. So first hold down Shift and select all the layers with yellow bars in them. Then up the top click the Align Tool marked below. This will automatically space them accurately!
(Note that I think in Photoshop versions earlier than CS2, you need to link the layers with those little paper clips because Shift-Selecting layers only appeared in CS2 – the version I use. CS3 users I expect are similar to CS2.)
现在,而不是试图用肉眼或按箭头键相同的次数(我很不好意思地说,我经常这样做),我们将使用对齐工具。因此,首先按住Shift并选择所有黄色条纹层。再向上的顶部,点击下面所标记对齐工具。这将自动准确的调节间距让它们排列整齐!
(注意,CS2以前的版本需要勾选链子的按钮来链接图,我使用的是CS3)
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OK, now we have a nicely spaced-out little marking that looks sort of industrial!
好,现在我们有一个很漂亮的嘘记看起来有些工业类。
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Next I created a new layer above and with a large soft black brush gently brushed along the edges. Remember, that anything outside the guides will probably not make it into the final card (unless the printer misses their cut), so the black should extend just over the line if it’s to be visible in the final product.
在上面新建一层,用大尺寸的黑色柔角橡皮在边缘涂抹。记住,任何超过参考线外面的东西都有可能不会出现在最后的卡片上(除非打印出现偏差导致裁剪错误),所以黑色的要稍微的超过参考线一点点,如果你想最后产品出现这个效果的话。
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So just to discuss bleed again, as I mentioned earlier everything outside those guides is just extra material for the printer to cut away. So it’s important at no point to put important things like text anywhere near the edges unless you don’t mind it potentially being cut. In my experience most printers in practice don’t stray very far from the cut line, however it CAN happen, especially if you use a cheap printer.
因此,又再次的讨论到裁剪了(专业名词应该为‘出血’,这里偶这样翻译比较好理解)。因此,不要把重要的内容放在靠近边缘的位置,除非你不介意它有可能被裁剪掉。根据我的经验在实践中大多数打印机都不会偏离裁剪线,但它可能发生,特别是如果你使用一个便宜的打印机。
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One problem doing this stuff in Photoshop is that there is no way to automatically hide the bleed area, which means sometimes when looking at the design it doesn’t quite look right. In InDesign you can switch to a special preview mode that hides the bleed, but in Photoshop we have to do this manually. So often I will create a layer above all the others and fill the bleed areas with white. Then I can switch this layer on or off so that i can see a little more accurately the proportions and area that will actually make it to the final printed item. Just make sure you switch these off before sending to the printer!
这里有一个问题,在Photoshop里没有办法自动隐藏出血区域(裁剪),也就是说在设计过程中我们没有法子随时看的很准确。在INDESIGN里面你可以自动切换到一个特别的浏览模式来隐藏出血位置,但是在Photoshop 里我们只能手工操作。所以我经常新建一个图层在所有图层的最上方,填充出血区域白色,这样我可以随意打开或者隐藏这层来看到一个更加细小和准确的范围直至最后的打印产品。只是需要你确定你在打印前隐藏这层。
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Next I placed some nice text on the card. This is actually the back side of the card (we’ll do the front in a second). I used an uber cool font called DIN which is very minimal and as you’ll see in a second has an awesome ‘@’ character.
接下来,我在卡上的添加一些不错的文字。这实际上是卡的背面(我们一会会做正面的)。我用了一个超级酷的字体叫‘DIN’,这是一种非常小的,一会你将看到一个很棒的字符。
I’ve set the type to be 8pt. If I remember correctly you should never go less than 6pt if you want something to be readable, and if you want it to be easily readable 7.5pt and above is best. As with all these things it depends on who your audience is. When making business cards for I would go with something that a person can quickly read at a glance when flicking through their pile of cards. When making something for myself, I often use small type because I can get away with it!
我设置的大小为8pt。
I also set the type to blending mode Linear Light so that it interacts a little with the background. Once this is done, we can save this document as Back.psd then go to File & Save As and this time save it as Front.psd, essentially duplicating the file to make the front
设置图层模式为-线性光;我们可以保存这个文件为&&Back.psd&&,然后 文件-另存为- Front.psd,可以复制文件来做正面部分的。
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Once again for the front I’ve added a bit of text with my Web address and Email address and name. And for those type lovers amongst you, have a look at the ‘@’ character–isn’t it neat! DIN is an industrial typeface originating in Germany which you can read about on Wikipedia.
Typography – or the art of using type/text in your designs – is one of those super important parts of design. If you come from a nondesign education background as I did, then it’s very important to go read up about it, because it’s the easiest way to pick a good designer from a bad. I’m not the best typographer around, but John Boardley is, and he runs one of my favorite blogs - iLoveTypography. If you want to get into type, go read his blog, it is the bomb!
本步没有具体意思,就不翻译了。
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Now the next thing we want to do is to switch off some of those layers that have the yellow bars, so there are just three left over. I want it to sort of look like the yellow bars start on the front and continue around to the back.
现在我想隐藏一些黄色线条层,只留下左边的3条黄线层。我想让这些线条看起来像是黄色的栏杆从前面开始然后延伸到后面。
Next using the Polygonal Lasso Tool (L), draw out a triangular shape as shown.
然后,利用多边形套索工具(L),画了一个三角形,如图所示。
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Then create a new layer just above the concrete texture and fill it with a dark grey and set the blending mode to Multiply. Now unfortunately that makes the yellow bits look dull, so we’ll fix that next!
然后在纹理层的上面新建一层,填充深灰色,设置图层模式-正片叠底。只是现在那些黄色看起来有点暗和淡了,我们马上来调整它。
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So Ctrl-click the first of the yellow bar layers, then holding Shift down, click on the next one, then the next, so that you have the pixels selected for all three. Then press Ctrl+Shift+I to invert the selection as shown. While that’s selected, click on the triangle layer and click the Add a Layer Mask icon on your layers palette. This will mask out the areas of the yellow bars so that they shine through.
按住CTRL键选定这3个黄色线条的图层,然后按Ctrl+Shift+I&&键反选,详见附图所示,点击图层蒙版按钮,这样就把黄色线条部分显示出来了。
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And there we have it! All done…
现在这些我们全部完成了。
Now we need to go to Layer & Flatten Image and then to Image & Mode & CMYK to switch back to CMYK and get ready for print. Note how because we flattened the image we preserve the way the yellow was interacting with the road behind it even though we’re back in CMYK. So basically we’ve taken advantage of RGB to achieve an effect and then flattened it down and switched back to CMYK so that we can print.
然后我们继续做,图层-拼合图层,图像-模式-CMYK模式,准备打印。
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Now go to File & Print with Preview and you should see something like shown below. If you don’t have all the options, click on More Options and they will appear. Check the box which says Corner Crop Marks, then click on the button that says Bleed and set it to 3mm. Note that for some reason Photoshop doesn’t let you go much higher than 3mm for bleed. I don’t really know why they’ve put an artificial cap on it, but maybe there is some amazing reason that I don’t understand.
文件-打印预览,你可以看到如下所示的页面,设置出血为3mm。
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Anyhow one thing you should do (that I just realized I didn’t do in the screenshot) is to untick Show Bounding Box.
还有一件事情你要记得做(我只是想到,没有截图)去掉显示边框里面的勾勾。
Once you’re all done, you should be able to print to a PDF, do the same for the back, and deliver that to your printer. Note that to print to PDF, you need to have a copy of Acrobat installed (not just the free Acrobat Reader, but the full version). If you have this, then you’re all finished now!
完成后,你应该能够做一个PDF文件,做一样的背面部分,并进行打印。请注意,要打印到PDF格式,你需要安装的Acrobat Reader的完整版本,如果你有这个,那么你现在就可以完工了。
If you don’t have Acrobat, never fear… all is not lost!
如果你没有Acrobat Reader,也不需要担心的。
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If you don’t have Acrobat, then forget the Print with Preview way of doing this and instead, go back to your document, create a new layer at the top, then using the Single Column Marquee Tool make selections around your guides as shown.
如果您没有Acrobat,忘记打印预览的做法,回到你的文件,创建一个新图层在顶部,然后使用线条选框工具,具体详见下图。
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Now we are going to draw in our very own crop marks. To do this we need to make sure we use what is called Registration Black. Registration black is basically 100% of all the CMYK colors (as shown). There is a bit more to it than that, and you can read more on Wikipedia if you are interested.
现在,我们要自己绘制裁剪标记。要做到这一点,我们需要确保我们使用的是定位黑色。定位黑色基本是指在所有的CMYK颜色中每项值均为100%(如图所示)。
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Anyhow so select the right color and then fill in those selections from the previous step. Then using the Rectangular Marquee Tool, cut away the lines so that there are just small single lines in each of the four corners left – i.e. four pairs of crop marks. Then go to Save As and save your file as a PDF using Photoshop. This should be OK for a printer, though to be honest I’ve never actually tried sending a file with crop marks like this to a printer, so it’s probably best to ask them if it’s OK before you go printing zillions of cards&&
总之选择正确的颜色,填充进刚才的选区里面。然后使用矩形选框工具,切割掉,这样四角的左边只有一个小小的细线条- 即四裁切线对。然后去另存为,保存为PDF文件即可。
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Anyhow so there’re my simple little business cards. They look kinda neat and should be ready to print. In the sample files you’ll find both the back and front as well as the PSD file I used to render this little image below which is my quick attempt at faking the printed cards.
这就是我的简单小卡片
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如果不坚持,何必当初那么努力
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辛苦卡姐了!很棒的教程!
教程写的都很详细的
如果您在做图或者看教程(PHOTOSHOP方面),遇到任何问题请到问题交流区提问,地址:;我们会在第一时间帮助您解决问题,如果在教程后面跟帖,一律不给予解决!~
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很喜欢这种颓废的效果 辛苦卡姐了
我不是MJ我就是MJ,你在看我还不是MJ
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分享个不错的视频教程网
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楼主好酷!& &好专业!
当前时区 GMT+8, 现在时间是更多优惠产品
更多优惠产品
友情链接:
与QQ客服交谈立乞 这是一个字,怎么念?看到一个人的名片上印了这个字,查了字典却没有,有这个字吗?怎么念?
暮年醒赣13
屺念 qi (气) 屹念 yi (意)
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其他类似问题
扫描下载二维码我用PS设计了一张名片!(公司只有PS)我用的尺寸是90X55~可以拿出去店铺印刷吗?_百度知道
我用PS设计了一张名片!(公司只有PS)我用的尺寸是90X55~可以拿出去店铺印刷吗?
用PS弄了一张名片!我用的尺寸是90mmX55mm~但我发现那实物是89mmX54mm!他要拿出去大量印刷?还有它是PSD文件格式~我可以拿出去那些印刷名片的店铺印刷吗!?急!!是帮老板设计的,请问我要把我的设计图改小一点吗
提问者采纳
适合层次和要求较高的人群使用。尺寸分两种情况。就用PS没问题我经常给人设计名片,300dpi。胶印质量较好,一是如果是拿去打印,一般拿到这种彩色名片的人都会好奇和称赞的,300dpi,成本高些,打印的名片由于用的是墨水。至于格式,直接写张条子给打印店就行了。不过PS设计的名片的确要高档得多,即裁边),遇水会花,设置为90X54mm。CMYK格式(转换格式在“图象”里的“模式”下点一下CMYK就转了),JPG格式。如果只印黑色或两色的名片,印刷厂会根据制作需要自行转换的。胶印多的2mm是“出水”(行话。(一般印刷厂习惯用Corel DRAW来排版,不能沾水,将图做好后合并图象保存为JPG格式最好,PSD格式拿去印也可以,适合一般人群和要求不高的人使用,不用管他怎么搞,设置为92X56mm,但价格便宜,就用不着PS来设计;如果是拿去胶印。如果打印用JPE格式就行)
提问者评价
谢谢了!我后来下了个CorelDRAW重新做了!~
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其他5条回答
最好改,影响质量位图是由象素组成的,不象矢量图假如用COREDRAW就不用可以拿去啊
格式都可以转换的,下载一些转换工具转换下就OK吧~
裁切的时候裁掉1mm就可以了
ps`中保存的时候`选择另存为``然后可以在另存为对话框的下拉菜单中选择`jpg的格式就可以了`不需要下载转换工具的`尺寸在ps里面的图象大小可以改的``
可以的,你可直接到印刷的地方用ps转一下啊!
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