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Authentic Paris Photos
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Photograph by Catherine Karnow
Perched atop Notre Dame Cathedral's North Tower, the storied Gothic gargoyles loom over Paris from their unique vantage point above point zéro, the site from which distances to the rest of France are measured. "Climbing the tower is an incredible thing to do," says photographer Catherine Karnow. "The views in every direction are amazing."Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
A man saunters past the Frog and Princess, a rowdy British sports pub in Paris's chic St-Germain-des-Près neighborhood, which is plastered with an ad for the France-hosted 2007 Rugby World Cup. "I happened to be in Paris during the Rugby World Cup semi-finals when France was playing against England, historically a very old rival, and not just in rugby," says Karnow. "The city was in a crazy fervor. There were literally thousands of British invading the streets, wearing rugby jerseys, spilling out of bars and cafés knocking back pints. On the night of the game, the city was pure madness." France, who beat out England for the hosting bid, ultimately fell to Britain in the semi-finals.Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
A woman whiles away a pleasant afternoon reading at the 62-acre (25-hectare) Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Garden), a tranquil haven in the bustling Latin Quarter. Standing guard at the north end of the park is the Palais du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Palace), built in 1615 for Marie de Médici, queen consort of King Henry IV, and current home to the French Senate. Just beyond the photo frame, an octagonal pond anchored by the ornate Médicis fountain draws French schoolchildren, grappling toy sailboats half their size.Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
Stomping ground of Cardinal Richelieu in the 17th century, Palais Royal now hosts well-heeled patrons flocking to trendy boutiques like this one, La Petite Robe Noire, where renowned designer Didier Ludot sticks to the most classic of fashion fundamentals: perfect, stylish little black dresses. Just across from the Louvre on Paris's Right Bank, the Palais Royal underwent a transformation in the 1990s from dusty tin-soldier and coin shops to the high-couture boutiques of today. Designer Jerome L'Huillier—whose nearby, elegant boutique is featured in Traveler's March 2008 feature story, "Authentic Paris"—spearheaded the spot's revival.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
Women chat at the Left Bank café Le Sèvres Raspail, pooch in tow and shoulder-to-shoulder with others enjoying the street-front view, perhaps after an afternoon shopping at nearby Le Bon Marché, a French department store frequented by Parisians and featured in Traveler's March 2008 feature story, "Authentic Paris."
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
Whenever I visit Paris, one of the first places I always go is the marvelous Left Bank bookstore, Shakespeare and Company," Karnow says. American expat George Whitman opened the landmark bookstore, which is tucked away in the shadow of Notre Dame Cathedral, in 1951. "The shop is in an ancient building of creaky floors and crooked stairs," says Karnow.
"There are hundreds of books and old leather armchairs where you can read for hours. If it is a Sunday, most likely there will be a poetry reading and tea in the same room where writers such as Lawrence Durrell and Henry Miller have read their works. One can even stay there for free, as I did once in 1981—but you do get what you pay for. I woke up to find myself covered in bed bug bites!"Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
Guests at an art opening mingle with stuffed fauna at Deyrolle, a quirky taxidermy shop in Paris. While en route to Pont Neuf, Karnow was sidetracked by the lively event. "The store turned out to be one of the oddest places in all of Paris," she says. "Everywhere I looked there were animals: huge stuffe a full-size zebra standing awkwar plump geese, miniature donkeys, a gi eagles and hawks swooping d glass cases of songbirds perched on branches, and trays of moths, butterflies, shiny scarabs, fossils, rocks, and so on." Now owned by Le Prince Jardinier, the shop dates back to 1831 as a provider of taxidermy services for hunters and natural science museums.Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
The modern I.M. Pei-designed glass-and-steel pyramid creates a sharp juxtaposition at the entrance of the Louvre, originally built in the 12th century as a fortress and now the world's most visited art gallery. At dusk, the crowds have cleared, and the City of Light reveals one of its best sides. Karnow says she was surprised at just how lovely the Louvre was this time of day.Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
Barman extraordinaire Colin Field meticulously crafts a cocktail at the Hotel Ritz's Bar Hemingway, so named because the legendary writer made his second home here. Field, one of the world's most celebrated bartenders (even named world's best in 1997 and 2001), innovates fresh cocktails nightly and has custom-designed several bar tools over the years. He has manned the bar since 1994 and is known to please both regular customers and travelers with his mood-matching concoctions. "We say, tongue in cheek, that a regular phones us to say that he is not coming that night," Field quips. Word to the wise: These drinks aren't for the faint of heart, both stiff in strength and price (cocktails start at $38).Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Photograph by Catherine Karnow
The cliché is true: "The French love their little dogs," Karnow says, and Parisians bring their canine companions everywhere—restaurants, cafés, and, yes, public transit. The City of Light is filled with fluffy white dogs like this carry-on, and Karnow describes dogs as the "accessory of choice" for both men and women. "Unlike in the States, though," she adds, "they are mostly unadorned: no cute little sweaters, rhinestone collars, or bee outfits. Even the dogs are chic and have taste."Read more about the City of Light in "Authentic Paris" in the March 2008 issue of National Geographic Traveler. Find out about free attractions and more in our Free Paris guide.
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