高中英语选择-How do you like my new car?-I like it,but would you please ( ) it on the road?1.not park 2.not to park 3.don't park 4.not parkingYou ( ) tell Margaret-It want her to know about this matter1.can't 2 mustn'tI've been to find a j_作业帮
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高中英语选择-How do you like my new car?-I like it,but would you please ( ) it on the road?1.not park 2.not to park 3.don't park 4.not parkingYou ( ) tell Margaret-It want her to know about this matter1.can't 2 mustn'tI've been to find a j
高中英语选择-How do you like my new car?-I like it,but would you please ( ) it on the road?1.not park 2.not to park 3.don't park 4.not parkingYou ( ) tell Margaret-It want her to know about this matter1.can't 2 mustn'tI've been to find a job that I love and,( ),I get well paid for it.1.what's worse 2.what's more 3.therefore 4.however讲讲具体的语法现象，
1would you please do sth./would you please not do sth.1感觉上是这个~2看句子的意思,what's more的意思是而且不明白的地方自己说出来,这样我才知道说什么啊^^Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
& There are a lot of
myths about engines...
easy break-in is one of the biggest &
This is a very controversial topic !!
I wrote "Break-In Secrets" after successfully applying
this method&
to approximately 300 new engines, all without any problems whatsoever.
Links to this article now appear on hundreds of motorsports discussion forums
from all over the world. The reason is that over time, large numbers of people have done a direct comparison between my method and the&owner's manual method, and the news of their success
is spreading rapidly.&
The results are always the same... a dramatic increase in power at all RPMs. In
addition, many professional mechanics have disassembled engines that have used
this method, to find that the condition of the engine is much better than
when the owner's manual break-in method has been used.
The thing that makes this page so controversial is that there have been many other
break-in articles&
written in the past which will contradict what has been written here.
Several factors make the older information on break-in obsolete.
The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern
in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in
requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for
achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with&
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.&
In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.
The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and
machining&
technologies which are now used. This means that the &wearing in& of the new
involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.
With that in mind ...
Welcome to one of the most controversial
motorsports pages on the internet !!
How To Break In Your Engine
More Power & Less Wear !
One of the most critical
parts of the engine building process is the break in !!&
No matter how well an engine is assembled, it's final power output is all up to
Although the examples shown here are motorcycle
these principles&apply to
4 stroke engines:&
Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...&
even Lawn Mowers !!&
( regardless of
brand, cooling type, or number of cylinders.&)
These same break in techniques apply to both steel cylinders and&Nikasil,
as well as the ceramic
composite cylinders that Yamaha uses in it's motorcycles and snowmobiles.
&What's The Best Way To Break-In&A New Engine ??&
The Short Answer:
Run it Hard&!
Nowadays, the
piston ring seal
is really what the break in process is all about.
Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion
pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to
&scrape& the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension
against the cylinder wall ...&
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of&combustion pressure ??&
Of course it can't.&
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
&From the actual gas pressure itself
!! It passes over the top of
the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall.
The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn
in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If
the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of
operation (open that throttle !!!), then the
entire ring will wear into&
the&cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.&&
The Problem With &Easy Break
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts
like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the
&peaks& of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.&
There's a very small window of opportunity to
get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!&
If the rings
aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness
before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re
hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to &open
it up& once or twice,&
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!&
An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at
the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike
pretty hard on the &test run&. So, without realizing it, that
adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!
A quick &break& to tell you
one of the many new pages on this site:
Here is a compilation of over one thousand of my favorite music
from the '60's, '70's, '80's, '90's, '00's and '10's
Keep reading the Break-In Secrets article, but please check out the new
page -- I really think you'll like it !!&
Another link to it is at the bottom of this page.
Here's How To Break-In
An Engine Properly:
There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:
1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or
Snowmobile.)
3) on the racetrack
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up&
completely !!
Then, using 4th gear:
Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from&
40% - 60% of your engine's
Let it Cool Down&For About 15 Minutes
Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from&
40% - 80% of
your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down&For About 15 Minutes
Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from&
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down&For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!
Frequently asked Question:&
What's a dyno ??
A dyno is a machine in which the bike is strapped on and
power is measured.&
It can also be used to break in an engine.
NOTE: If you use a
dyno with a brake, it's critical
during break - in that you
allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created
during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.&
The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring
and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this
process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out
the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between&
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too
You'll notice that at first the engine &smokes& on decel, this
is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it
right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away&after about 7-8 runs.
Important Note:
Many readers have
e-mailed to ask about the cool down, and if it&
means &heat cycling& the engine.
No, the above &cool down& instructions
only apply if you
are using a dyno machine to break in your engine. The reason for
cool down on a dyno has nothing to do with&
&Heat Cycles& !!!&
on a dyno is
important since the cooling fans used at most dyno facilities are too small to
equal the amount of air coming into the radiator at actual riding
speeds. On a dyno, the water temperature will become high enough to
cause it to boil out of the radiator after&
about 4 dyno runs. This
will happen to a brand new engine just as it will&
happen to a very
old engine.&
(Always allow the engine to cool down after 3 runs
whenever you use a
If you're breaking your engine in on the street or racetrack, the
high speed incoming air will keep the engine temperature in the
normal range.&
(In other words, you don't have to stop by the side of the road to
let your bike cool down.)
What about &heat
cycling& the engine ??
There is no need to &heat cycle& a new engine. The term
&heat cycle& comes from the idea that the new engine
components are being &heat treated& as the engine is run.
Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's
already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The
temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than
an engine will ever reach during operation.
The idea of breaking the engine in using &heat cycles& is
a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of
&heat treating&.
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind
resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno
The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd,
3rd and 4th gear.&
Realistically, you
won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most
bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The
best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and
deceleration. You don't have to go over 65
mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed
by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that
you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want&
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in
on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too
little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in
slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out&into the country
where you can vary the speed more&
and run it through the gears !&
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you
should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra
for the turns. Remember that both hard
acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important
during the break in process.
On the Racetrack:
Warm the engine up completely:
Do one easy lap to warm up your tires.
Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks or&
any safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice session&
and check the
water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment
to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration
is just the ticket for sealing the rings.
Go For It !!
Yeah - But ...&
the owner's
manual says to break it in easy ...
Notice that this technique isn't &beating& on
the engine, but rather taking a purposeful, methodical approach to sealing the
rings. The logic to this method is sound. However, some will have a hard time
with this approach, since it seems to &go against the grain&.
The argument for an easy break-in is usually: &that's what the manual says&
Or more specifically: &there are tight parts in
the engine and you might do damage or even seize it if you run it hard.&&
Consider this:
Due to the vastly improved metal casting and
machining&technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are
not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely
rare occurrence these days. But, if
is&something wrong with the engine clearances from the
factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.
The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first&
thousand miles ???&
This is a good question ...
Q: What is
the most common cause of engine problems ???&
Failure to:&
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!
is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
easy break in !!!
Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate
the oil with
acids and other harmful
combustion by-products !!&
Ironically, an &easy break in& is not at all what it seems.
By trying to &protect& the engine, the exact opposite happens,
as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the
life of your engine !!
What about running it
in the garage ???
Maybe you have a new snowmobile and it's not quite winter yet, or a new
bike and it's snowing...&
The temptation to fire up a new vehicle in the garage just to
the new engine run can be very strong.&
This is the worst thing for a new engine, in fact, my advice is:&
don't even start it up until you're ready to warm
it up for the first ride.
The reason is that brand-new rings don't seat all the way around the 360
degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration
forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire
circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the
exact shape of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure.&
Now, imagine if the engine is run in the garage. There is no load on the
engine, so the rings are just going up and down &along for the
ride&. Only a small portion of their surface is actually contacting
the cylinder wall. The ring area that does contact the cylinder wears down
the roughness of the honing pattern on the cylinder walls. Once the
roughness of the cylinder is gone, the rings stop wearing into the
cylinder. If this happens before the entire ring has worn into the
cylinder and sealed, you will have
a slow engine no matter how hard it gets ridden after that point.&
The difference between what happens in an engine running in the garage,
versus one being ridden is a hard concept to put into written words, so if
I may use the sounds that we all can relate to: it's the difference
between &zing-zing-zing& and &bwaaaaaaaaaAAAAAA&
During &zing-zing-zing& the rings don't get loaded for more than
a split second, whereas during &bwaaaaaAAAAAA&, the engine is in
100% ring sealing mode.
Recent Snowmobile Info:
Yamaha's break-in recommendation for the RX1 has been to idle the
engine for 15 minutes.&
Some owners found that the heat build up from doing this was so
that their taillight had begun melting (!!!)
Yamaha has since changed the recommendation to three 5 minute idle
Why would Yamaha recommend a break in method which will prevent the
from sealing as well as possible ??
This is a good question ...
A Picture's Worth A
Thousand Words:
The piston on the right was broken in as&
per MotoMan's instructions.
After a full season of hard racing:
- Perfect Ring Seal ...
- No Scuffing ...
- Lots of Trophies !!!
These Honda F3 pistons show&
the difference.&
Although these pistons came out of engines which
were raced for a full season, they weren't set-up with any special
clearances or other preparation.&
These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally
stock as built by Honda.
The only difference was the break in method they used...
The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's
instructions.&
The one on
the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's
manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to &blow
by& down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to
&suck-up& into the combustion chamber on deceleration. &
to say, this bike was slow !!
It's up to you:&
loss in power from an easy break-in and the resulting poor ring seal
anywhere from 2% - 10% !!&
In other words:
The gain in power from using this break-in
method can be anywhere from 2% - 10% !!&
Some have felt that the piston which was broken in hard in
the above photo is too clean to be true !!&
&That piston is impossible, there must be some trick going on.&
So, here I present: &The Impossible Piston Museum&
Here are 14 pistons from 14 different bikes, with several
manufacturers represented. Some are
from streetbikes and some from racebikes.
All of the engines had the correct jetting, the reason some have black carbon
deposits is because they were run on &pump gas&, which burns dark
regardless of the jetting. Whereas the lighter ones were run on oxygenated race
fuel, which gives a very light tan to gray color. (Many of the black-carboned&pistons were from
racebikes.)
Disclaimer:
Absolutely no photo altering or physical cleaning of the pistons is
allowed in the museum !!&
We run a legit exhibit, and all the artifacts on display are 100% genuine.
The controversial piston in the above picture is the last one in the middle
and it's indicated by the arrows.
You can take a closer look by clicking on the photos to see the full sized
It looks like there are more than 14 pistons, because the area in the 3 photos overlap.&
It's 3 segments of a panorama photo to give you multiple views of this
extraordinarily rare collection.
The pistons have been stacked for display purposes only, they aren't going back
into engines. Always be super careful
when handling pistons, as the aluminum is soft and very easily dented,&causing
combustion leakage, and friction ... neither of which is good for power.
As in any museum, some of the specimens are better examples than others,&
but the point is that none have any leakage past the top ring, because they were
all broken in&
by the method described here !
The only impossible thing about these pistons ...
is that it's impossible to achieve this result with an easy break-in.
What about street bikes ???
This piston is from a 650 Honda
Hawk.&The brown discoloration that extends up into the piston pin bore
is burnt oil from the extreme heat leaking past all
3 rings !!&
The uneven heat leakage was so bad, that it caused the cylinder to distort
and become out of round, causing piston to cylinder scuffing
in the tight part of the &oval& cylinder.
When I showed the customer his&
pistons,&he said:
& I don't understand how that
happened, I followed the owner's
manual break-in instructions 100% !!
Why would Honda recommend a break in method which
prevent the&
rings from sealing as well as possible ??
&This is a good question ...
the third most common cause of engine problems ???
changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!&
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter
after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens
immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of
leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing
process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it
gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to&
flush out all the loose metal ???
&This is a good question ...
3 more words on break-
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least&
full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.&
After that use your favorite brand of
Viewer Questions:
If break- in happens so quickly,
why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because
while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a
controlled environment, so most of the mileage may&
not be in &ring loading mode&. Synthetic oil is so slippery that it
actually &arrests& the break in process before the rings can seal
completely. I've had a few customers who
switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no
matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last
thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot&
of mileage before switching to
synthetic.&It's really a &better safe than sorry& situation.
bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??
A: I recommend changing the&factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.
Q: What about the main and rod
bearings, don't they break - in ??
Actually, the operation of plain bearings
doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used&
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up
after the engine has been sitting a while,&
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up
the engine when it's first started.
The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines,
and will be covered in a future issue&
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains
the non-contact phenomenon.
Q: Why change the oil at 20
miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up&
screen catch the&aluminum bits ???
It's true that the screen
stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil
filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris
to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are&unprotected by the filtration system,
and even the cam chain makes a perfect &conveyer belt& to&
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!
A close&examination of&a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum
coats and tightens&
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time
I spend &blueprinting&&
an engine is actually inspecting every part and &de-aluminizing&
I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that
way, but a $20 oil change&
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the
first miles.
What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ???
This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power
Q: Will this break - in method
cause my engine to wear out faster ???
A: No, in fact,
a poor ring seal will allow an
increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil.&
Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are
the result of an&
&owner's manual& or &magazine tech article& style easy
By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your
oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.&
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power
across&the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.&
Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!
Here's The New Page I
Mentioned !!
&I really think you'll like it !!&
Click Here:
Here's another page on this site --
PhotoWorld of Synchronicity -- &
In this photo gallery each of the pairs has a relation of meaning to each
(some have several relations) -- thus the name
&Synchronicity&. A few are easier to see immediately, some
take a lot more thinking, and a few are extremely hard to figure out.
All have a logical / lateral thinking answer.
There have only been a few correctly answered -- so, if you are up to the
challenge, there is a good chance that you can solve some !!
Even if you are not into lateral thinking puzzles, the photographs
themselves are the most striking images I find while out with my camera,
and I hope you like them for their artistic value alone.&
Thanks for checking out PhotoWorld of Synchronicity, and please send your
comments and answers at the e-mail on the bottom of each photo page.&
Sincerely,
Pat McGivern
MotoMan's&
Learn How to Do it Yourself:
High Velocity&
Intake Porting !!
Smaller&Intake Ports&Gain 7 % More Power
If you've found the Break In Secrets
interesting, there are 26 more articles in Power News Magazine.
Find out why the manufacturers recommend an easy break-in,&
revealing evidence
which provides answers to those
good questions&
we've all wondered about.
(The questions the manufacturers wish you wouldn't ask ...)
Plus, find out how much more power the readers of this page have gained, as well
photos and analysis of other engine parts in long term tests of this process.
Whether you're into motorcycles, cars or snowmobiles,&Power News Magazine contains&
the most provocative engine tech articles in the world ...
... you'll never think about engines in the same way again !!}